Thursday, April 25, 2013

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 37 Chikens in gretney


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2013 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

37.  Chikens in gretney
Boyle chikens in brothe goode brothe and rese the thyys and the wyngys & the brestys take mylke of almondys unblanchede draw up withe the same brothe & poudyre of canelle & a perty of wyne sygure saffron & salt do hit to gedyre yn a pott set one the fyre stere hit whene hit boyles sesyne hit up with poudyr of gyngere & vergeus lay the chikenys hote yne dysches have yolkes of eyrone sodyne harde & fryede a lytylle couche one a boute the wyngez & the thyes.

-=-=-

While the title of the recipe most likely brings to mind the word "gratineé", it is much more likely to be a mispelling of "kirtin" as there are several contemporary recipes titled "chickens in kirtin", including one in A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To dight chekins in kirtyn tak iij pound of almondes made with good pik mylk with swet brothe and put it in a pot and put ther to clowes mace sugur and pynes hole and let it boile to gedur till it be honging and put ther to an unce of ginger and vinigar and put it in the pot then tak chekins ehalvyd / for a lord tak hole chekins and sethe them a litille then pull of the skyne and fry them in swete grece and put them in large dillies and pour on the ceripe and do ther on sugur and pouder of ginger and serue.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 36 Oystres in Cyve


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2013 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

36.  Oystres in Cyve
Shele oystrys perboyle heme in fayre watyre and the selfe owet & wasche heme yne fayre watyre pyke and trye the broth thorow a streynoure do to gedyr make heme up as thy dyde the conyngys al save the blode & coloure heme withe saunders.

-=-=-

There are a handful of other recipes for "Oysters in Civey", but none of them are quite the same as this one.  Some could be due to steps being omitted and replaced with the phrase "make heme up as thy dyde the conyngys al save the blode", but it's not completely clear which recipe is being referred to.  Most likely they mean recipe 33 (Conynggez in Cyve).  With that for context, the following recipe from Forme of Cury seems to be the closest.
OYSTERS IN CYNEE. XX.VI. III. Take Oysters parboile hem in her owne broth, make a lyour of crustes of brede & drawe it up wiþ the broth and vynegur mynce oynouns & do þerto with erbes. & cast the oysters þerinne. boile it. & do þerto powdour fort & salt. & messe it forth.  [Forme of Cury (England, 1390)]


Thursday, April 18, 2013

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 35 Oysters in grave


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2013 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

35.  Oysters in grave
Schelle oystrys in to a pott and swette ther withe put ther to fayre watyre perboyle heme take hem up put hem yn fayre watyre peke heme clene blaunche almondys grynde hem tempyre heme up withe the same brothe draw up a goode mylke do hit in a pott withe onyons and hole spycez and a lytylle poudyre of sygure boyle hit to gedyre & doo the oystres ther to & serve hit forthe & caste ther yne zoure[?] dragge of hole spicys a bovyne & blaunche poudyre.

-=-=-

While there are a number of other recipes with the same title in surviving cookbooks, the closest one is the following.
Oystres in grauey. Take almondes, and blanche hem, and grinde hem, and drawe hem thorgh a streynour with wyne, and with goode fressh broth into gode mylke, and sette hit on the fire and lete boyle; and cast thereto Maces, clowes, Sugur, pouder of Ginger, and faire parboyled oynons myced; And then take faire oystres, and parboile hem togidre in faire water; And then caste hem there-to, And lete hem boyle togidre til they ben ynowe; and serue hem forth for gode potage.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]
The use of almond milk instead of dairy suggests that this was intended as a recipe for fish days.

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 34 Conyngges yne clere brothe


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2013 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

34.  Conyngges yne clere brothe
Chop conyngys in pecys wesche heme clene do heme yn a pott put ther to clene brothe & redd wyne boyle hem tille they be y nowghe loke hit nowght muche of the brothe sesyne hit up withe poudyre of gyngere a grete quantyte and vergyes and draw hit thorow a streynoure loke hit be salt & serve hit forthe.

-=-=-

This recipe for "clear rabbit soup" is very similar to one by the same name in Forme of Cury.
Connynges In Clere Broth. XX.III. VI. Take Connynges and smyte hem in gobetes and waissh hem and do hem in feyre water and wyne, and seeþ hem and skym hem. and whan þey buth isode pyke hem clene, and drawe the broth thurgh a straynour and do the flessh þerwith in a Possynet and styne it. and do þerto vynegur and powdour or gynger and a grete quantite and salt after the last boillyng and serue it forth.  [Forme of Cury (England, 1390)]
There are a couple of minor differences.  Wagstaff uses broth instead of water, and omits the vinegar in favor of verjuice (both of which would add tartness), but otherwise the recipes are essentially the same.

Thursday, April 11, 2013

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 33 Conynggez in Cyve


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2013 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

33.  Conynggez in Cyve
Chop conyngys in pecys do hem in a pott take onyons and good herbes y choppyd to gedyre boyle hem up in swete brothe do ther to poudyre of pepyre make a lyour of paryngys of crustys of swete bredde drawyne withe wyne and a lytle blode alay hit up but a lytylle do there to poudyre of canele a grete dele sesyne hit up withe poudyre of gyngere wenggur [vinegar?] & salt.

-=-=-

Rabbit in onion gravy was apparently a very popular dish, enough so that most medieval cookbooks have one or more version of the recipe.  The version in Wagstaff includes aspects of several of them.
Connynges In Cynee. XXV. Take Connynges and smyte hem on peces. and seeþ hem in gode broth, mynce Oynouns and seeþ hem in grece and in gode broth do þerto. drawe a lyre of brede. blode. vynegur and broth do þerto with powdour fort.  [Forme of Cury (England, 1390)]
To mak conys in cevy smyt conys in small peces and sethe them in good brothe put ther to mynced onyons and grece and draw a liour of broun bred and blod and sesson it with venygar and cast on pouder and salt and serve it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]
Conynges in cyne. Take conynges and parboyle hom, and smyte hom on gobettes and sethe hom; and take onyons and mynce hom, and frye hom in grees, and do therto; and take bred steped in brothe and blode, and drawe up a lyoure (mixture) wyth brothe and vynegur, and do therin; and pouder of pepur and of clowes, and serve hit forthe.  [Ancient Cookery (England, 1425)] 
As with the above, the Wagstaff version calls for cut up chicken and onions, and is thickened using bread crumbs and blood.  However the Wagstaff version also adds "good herbs", and uses wine in the thickening step instead of broth.  In this way it is rather unusual.

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 32 Conynggez in gravee


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2013 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

32.  Conynggez in gravee
Perboile conyngges in gode brothe take them up smyte them in peces make hem clene do hem in a pott with hole clowis macys & onyons y cut somedel grete in poudere blaunche almondys grynde hem & draw up withe the same brothe a thike mylke & do to gedyre sugere boyle hit loke hit be salt messe hit forthe cast ther one a dragge of clowys macys a mynsyde gyngere and blaunche poudyre.

-=-=-

While there are a handful of recipes for various meats in onion gravy, this particular combination of rabbit, spices, and almond milk appears to be unique.  The closest recipe I could find that had all these ingredients is the following one from Ancient Cookery, however it adds several other items.
Browet Browet of almayne. Take conynges and parboyle hom, and choppe hom on gobettus, and rybbes of porke or of kydde, and do hit in a pot, and sethe hit; then take almondes and grynde hom, and tempur hit up wyth broth of beef, and do hit in a pot; and take clowes, maces, pynes, ginger mynced, and raysynges of corance; and take onyons and boyle hom, then cut hom and do hom in the pot; and colour hit with saffron, and let hit boyle; and take the flesh oute from the brothe and caste therto; and take alkenet and frye hit, and do hit in the pot thurgh a streynour; and in the fettynge doun put therto a lytel vynegar, and pouder of gynger medelet togedur, and serve hit forth.  [Ancient Cookery (England, 1425)]

If the almond milk is omitted then the recipe isn't too far off from recipe 133 in A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak cony or malard in cevy tak cony henne or malard and rost them till they be almost enoughe or els chope them and fry them in freche grece and fry onyons mynced and put them in a pot and cast ther to freche brothe and half wyne clowes maces pouder of guinger and pepper and draw it with venygar and when it is boiled cast ther to thy licour and pouder of guingere and venygar and sesson it and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry  (England, 1468)]

Thursday, April 4, 2013

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 31 Hare yne talbut


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2013 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

31.  Hare yne talbut
Choppe a hare yne pecys perboyle hyme yne goode brothe withe hys awne blode trye the flesche yne a potte grynde almondys unblaunchede tempyre heme up withe the same brothe & put mylke there to and do therto onyonys perboylde hole spicer and powdyr for the sesyne hit up poudir and salt a quantite of wyne and a lytil sugure.

-=-=-

There are a few other recipes for "hares in talbotes" in surviving cookbooks, and the closest to the one above is from Forme of Cury.  The seasoning is slightly different, and there are a couple of minor steps added, but otherwise it is essentially the same.
Hares In Talbotes. XXIII. Take Hares and hewe hem to gobettes and seeþ hem with þe blode unwaisshed in broth. and whan þey buth y nowh: cast hem in colde water. pyke and waisshe hem clene. cole the broth and drawe it thurgh a straynour. take oþer blode and cast in boylyng water seeþ it and drawe it thurgh a straynour. take Almaundes unblaunched. waisshe hem and grynde hem and temper it up with the self broth. cast al in a pot. tak oynouns and parboile hem smyte hem small and cast hem in to þis Pot. cast þerinne Powdour fort. vynegur an salt.  [Forme of Cury (England, 1390)]

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 30 Hare yne papalde


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2013 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

30.  Hare yne papalde
Take a hare chop hyme pecys perboyle hyme yne watyre claryfe the brothe put to thy flesche boyle hyt sesone hit up withe douce poudyre & salt take losyngez of past frydde of wafrons cowche heme in a dysches & poudyre the sewe a boyvyne.

-=-=-

This recipe appears to be a parallel of recipe 223 in A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak haires in pardolous tak an haire and parboille hir in good brothe swong eggs ther to and hew fleshe smalle and cast it in the sewe and sethe them well then tak obleys or waiffurs and couche them in a platter and salt the sewe and put it upon the obleys and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]
While the most of the pieces are there and seem to be in the same order, the Wagstaff version is missing the eggs and seems to be slightly more cryptic.  Versions of this recipe from other sources more closely match the one in Noble, which suggests the omission of the eggs may have been a copying error.

Hares In Papdele. XXIIII. Take Hares parboile hem in gode broth. cole the broth and waisshe the fleyssh. cast azeyn to gydre. take obleys oþer wafrouns in stede of lozeyns. and cowche in dysshes. take powdour douce and lay on salt the broth and lay onoward an messe forth.  [Forme of Cury (England, 1390)]

Harus in Perdoylyse. Take harys and perboyle hom, I rede, In goode brothe, kele hit for drede, And hew þy flesshe and cast þerinne. Take swongen eggus, no more ne myn, And cast in þy sewe and sethe hit þenne. Take obles and wafrons, as I þe kenne, Close hom in dysshes fare and wele. Salt þe sewe, so have þou cele, And lay hit above as gode men done, And messe hit forthe, Syr, at þo none.  [Liber cure cocorum (England, 1430)]